Hyderabad from the Golkonda

So, this is where the Hope and Koh-i-Noor diamonds came from before becoming the crown jewels of another land. As we looked over the world’s oldest diamond mines within the walls of the Golkonda Fort, I found the history of the place so rich, yet very overwhelming, to fathom all that had taken place here in such a relatively short period of time but had changed Hyderabad so deeply, touching upon every thread of the city’s existence. Though the region had been governed by original Telanganas under the Chalukya and Kakatiya dynasties from the 700s to the 1300s AD, Hyderabad city was founded more recently in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shahi of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, one of the many Nizam rulers, whose origins are Irani, to rule the region before it succumbed to the Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb. The long reign of the Nizams has made the city one of the largest homes of the Shia Muslims of India. This fascinating blend of South Indian, Hindu, Islamic, Persian, and Arabic cultures at the crossroads of north and south India is mirrored in the city’s stunning architecture, cuisine, language, and arts.

The Qutb Shahi dynasty has probably left some of the greatest treasures in the region in the form of palaces, a total enhancement of the Golkonda fort from mud to a full blown 11 kilometer radius fort and architectural wonder, the Charminar, Chowmahalla Palace, and the seven Qutb Shahi tombs located just 1 kilometer from the fort. The dynasty was renowned for its tolerance, and in fact, praise and preservation of the local Hindu religion and Telangana culture. The art form, Kuchipudi, was formalized and named after the village it originated from, classical music flourished, and it is believed that Muhammed Quli Qutb Shahi himself fell in love and married a Telangana woman, named Bhagmathi. The city was ostensibly named after her, Bhagyanagaram, and once she was given the Muslim name, Hyder Begum, the name changed to Hyderabad.

Charminar, the landmark of Hyderabad

The Bala Hisar, the highest point of the Golkonda fort

Intricate details of the Charminar

Tourists resting on the original foundations of the fort

Minar of a mosque inside the fort

View of the living quarters and gardens of the old dynasty

Apparently covered with mirrors, this was the bathing and adorning chamber of the female royal members

Another view of the ruins

Details of Islamic architecture

Hyderabadi women

Details of Nizam architecture

Intricate molding on a Qutb Shahi tomb

Masjid next to the grandest tomb of Hayat Bakshi Begum

The grandest masjid on the tomb grounds

Walkway around Hayat Bakshi Begum's tomb

Windows of the masjid minar

View of a Qutb Shahi tomb

Stunning architecture

The grounds had 2 twin tombs- one set for the sultan's favorite hakims (physicians) and the other for the courtesans Taramati and Premamati

Another Qutb Shahi tomb

The tomb of another ruler

Details of the tomb moldings

I couldn't get enough of these structures- my favorite in all of Hyd

The cuisine is out of this world! South Indian cuisine and spices were blended with the rich culinary styles of the Nizams and eventually with that of the Mughals to create some of the most mouthwatering Hyderabadi biryanis and haleem (a stewed meat and pulse dish, garnished with tempered onions, fresh cilantro, ginger, and lemon), two of my favorite dishes across all cuisines. The sweets are equally divine, made of sweet milk, vermicelli, porridges made with sweet gourd, and of course, ghee. Hyderabad is an absolutely blissful (and hence, dangerous!) culinary experience.

This was my second work trip to Hyderabad, and the first sadly gave me glimpses only of my hotel and the office. This time, I was determined to work hard, but shop and eat hard as well. Hyderabad also cultivates a shopping gluttony in some, and I was surely victim to it. Charminar is famous for its many wholesale markets and pearls, but my personal favorite is the Choodi Bazaar, an entire lane with off-shooting, smaller alleyways that will blind you with the rows and rows of the shiniest of shiny bangles lining its walls and counter tops. My first visit there, I believe I walked away with 12 dozen sets of bangles in a variety of reds, greens, golds, blues, and purples. It’s a marvelous, yet maddening experience that draws one back for more and more.

After working for over a year in the northern regions of India, I’m glad our partner agency’s head office is in Hyderabad, granting me so many visits to explore this wondrous city bit by bit. I look forward to being back in another month.