Cartagena’s history can be traced as far back as 7,000 B.C. and was inhabited by a slew of indigenous and regional tribes before finally falling victim to colonization in the 1500s under Spanish, French, and English rule. This mixture is mirrored in the features of its people. During this period, walls were erected around what is now known as the Old City and the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas to defend it. By the 18th century, Cartagena had become a lucrative trading port vied for by many for trade in precious metals and sadly, slaves. In the throes of its desirability and hence, caught in a vicious cycle of rise and subsequent pillaging, its people and traditions suffered most from such turbulence. The city also served as one of the three seats of the Inquisition in the Americas, and the Inquisition Palace, facing Plaza Bolivar, is open now as a museum, displaying the instruments and methods that thousands of innocents were victim to. It was very surreal to physically be in the places that I’ve read so much about in history books and novels, where so many tragic, historical events have transpired. I couldn’t help wondering how many uneasy souls still wandered the place.
It is ironic that some of the most horrendous occurrences in history would have taken place in the beautiful port city that is Cartagena. The Old City is comprised of cobblestone lanes lined with the most colorful houses, bougainvillea brimming over their balconies and ornamenting the skies above. Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s Love in the Time of Cholera takes place here, and though I couldn’t match the images conjured in my mind when reading the book (one of my absolute favorites) with what I saw, I couldn’t deny its suitability for a tale of romance. A horse-drawn carriage ride through these lanes is a must!
Traditional palenquera fruit vendor 
Botero's Fat Lady in Plaza Santa Domingo, once a place for slave auctioning
The Fat Lady
Typical house color and window structure of the Old City
Typical massive donors of colonial architecture
Something romantic
Street entertainers
We stayed in a gorgeous villa, which we ultimately had to ourselves, situated across the stunning Heredia Theater and the beach, just around the corner from Marquez’s home! The staff spoiled us rotten, always at our beckon call, serving us villa-delivered pizza and wine while we relaxed in the rooftop Jacuzzi or arranging manicures and pedicures for us around the courtyard fountain. It was pure bliss and just what we needed to start off our holiday. We had little trouble, thankfully, communicating in Spanish, which came back to us in a rush, and Colombia’s Spanish is, by far, the clearest, most enunciated Spanish I’ve heard. Cartagena’s sites can be seen within a day, including the Castillo, the Convento de la Popa, and Bocagrande, the modern, skyscraper studded part of the new city. The rest of our days were spent relaxing and shopping in the many plazas, spas, and boutiques. Though not my typical travel style, I have to admit enjoying being a lady of leisure! And, of course, there was plenty of feasting! The food in Cartagena, particularly the seafood, is divine in this port city. Fresh fish, shrimp, squid, mussels, and lobster are doused in butter and garlic as part of various delectable, mouthwatering creations served with patacones, biscuits made of green banana, mashed and baked. For dessert, Colombians offer delicious coffee (and I’m not even a coffee drinker), arequipe (Colombian dulce de leche), and obleas, which are similar to the alfajores of Argentina.
Home sweet home
Church near Plaza Bolivar
Sculptures within the church
Inside the Teatro Heradia
Another view inside the Teatro Heredia
Teatro Heredia
Another view of the Teatro
Castillo de San Felipe be Barajas
Original canons of the fort
Colombian flag, soaring over the fort
Casa Roman
View of Bocagrande's skyline
Streets of Cartagena
The Charleston
The spotlight of the Old City's skyline
Entrance into the Old City
A view of the Old City Surprisingly, the best beaches are on the islands off the city’s coast, the most notable being the Islas del Rosario. Among these, the best is Majagua, which took us about 1 hour to reach via speed boat. We spent the day relaxing amidst its white sandy beaches and clear blue waters and did a bit of snorkeling, which was actually quite phenomenal. We weren’t quite yet ready to leave this romantic, relaxing town for the “small big city” of Medellin.
We reach Majagua
Our snorkeling guide
Pelicans of majagua
Everyone's stylin' in Cartagena
Rooftop view of the Old City
Another rooftop view of the city from the Charleston pool
Caribbean Sunset
The Gorditas
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