A Place of Travelers and Magicians

I remember one Friday afternoon in Kabul, we had little to distract ourselves with and decided to download and watch a film projected onto our dining room wall.  My very good friend and colleague found Travelers and Magicians, a Bhutanese film, depicting the tensions between the new and the old that the younger generations face.  Nyingma and Khajupa are the two sects of Buddhism practiced here, and while the former allows monks to marry, the more dominant latter limits life to prayer and the monastery.  More and more, monks are choosing to resign from such a life and join the movement towards modernization.  But, this generation is torn between two worlds because while one tempts them with an unknown future with the outside world, the other is a magical one that ties them very strongly to the magnificence of their past and present, woven by who possibly else but magicians.  I was beginning to feel convinced so as I made the two or so hour hike up to the Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest monastery), and upon reaching my destination, there wasn’t a single doubt left in my mind. 

Massive prayer wheels and strings upon strings of colorful prayer flags guided the way up to the Tiger’s Nest.  The monastery gained its name from the belief that Guru Rinpoche flew there on the back of a tiger, believed to have been a manifestation of his consort, Yeshe Tsogyal, to conquer the demon, Singey Samdrup.  He, then, stayed on to meditate in a cave for three months around which a temple has been built within the monastery.  The last stretch of the journey to the monastery included descending and then ascending a flight of 700 steps, crossing a small bridge under a waterfall, and passing the Singye Pelphu Lakhang (Snow Lion Cave), where Guru Rinpoche’s consort is believed to have meditated.  The views of the monastery grow increasingly magnificent throughout the hike, but once one reaches the entrance, it is a photographer’s torture.  Like with all temples, photography is not allowed within the walls of the structure.  It was painful to bear, but the rationale behind the rule is sound.  The monastery’s temples, like all Bhutanese temples, contain absolutely lovely bronze and gold-plated statues of the Guru, Buddha, various forms of Tara, and many other Buddhist deities.  Because the treatment of captured images by tourists can’t be controlled once removed from a memory card, the government believes the sanctity of the divine would be at risk.  The government established this rule after openings its doors to visitors to pre-empt any potential defamation of their gods and saints. 

Prayer wheel at the base of the Taktshang Goemba cliff

More prayer wheels and flags with the monastery in the backdrop

Prayer wheel, situated one hour into the hike

Prayer flags garland the hiking path

Singye Pelphu Lhakhang (Snow Lion Cave)

The monastery is comprised of a series of temples connected by courtyards lined with prayer wheels and walls covered with colorful murals depicting various scenes from Buddhist mythology.  Doorways gilded with gold and other metals with intricate designs mark the entry into each temple, the most breathtaking housing three massive statues of the divine with elaborate and colorful iron-welded backdrops of vines, lotus flowers, and celestial clouds.  Thangkas and multi-colored banners adorn the ceilings, while bronze cups of holy water and brass butter lamps embellish the shrines.  I could have remained there staring away for hours.  With such structural wonders embedded within mountain crevices or just inches from collapsing into stunning valleys, it’s no wonder that many believe Bhutan may be the long lost, elusive Shangri-La. 

Stunning Bhutanese architecture

A view of the Taktshang Goemba through prayer flags

Guru Sungjem Lhakang and Guru Tsengye Lhakhang

Another view of the Tiger's Nest, held by "angels' hairs"

Sun finally shines on the monastery

En route to the monastery

Drukpa playing the traditional chiwang (fiddle)

Before heading to Thimphu, we visited Paro (Rinpung) Dzong, which literally translates as ‘fortress on a heap of jewels.’  The dzong is overlooked by Bhutan’s national museum, which is somewhat rudimentary but still houses a spectacular collection of the colorful masks used during religious festivals.  Dzongs are some of the best examples of Bhutanese architecture and often house both civil service offices and monasteries.  The white-washed walls of the dzong are massive and are also ornamented with those stunning arch-framed windows described in yesterday’s post.  Within the outerwalls, lined with balconies at each level from which monks peer out, is the largest structure of the dzong--- a five story tower housing the government offices at the center of the courtyard.  Dzongs’ monumental size allowed for their use as fortresses from where the military could defend the country from the various invasions throughout its history. 

Manidhar flags along the banks of the Paro Chhu

Monks at their present home, Paro (Rinpung) Dzong

The Wheel of Life mural inside the Dzong

More stunning intricate word carvings

Main entrance to the Dzong

The 'Utse' or 'Central Tower' of Paro Dzong

Monk seated by the dukhang (prayer hall) entrance

LOVE these arched windows!

Guarding the dukhang

During the major festivals, the largest being tsechu, which occurs during the peak tourism season (September/October), the dzong’s courtyard is decorated with vibrant banners and thangkas as dancers adorn themselves in the most colorful of costumes and masks of animals, deities, and celestial beings to reinact significant stories and events from Buddhist folklore.  While unfortunately I’m missing out on observing and even engaging in these unique theatrical events at the heart of Bhutanese culture, I admittedly am thoroughly enjoying the opportunity to explore this mystical land with the sense that I have it all to myself!