Bombay by the Sea

From one city by the sea to another, I had finally reached Bombay (aka Mumbai), the entertainment and commercial capital of India. I had decided to give Delhi a break and visit the last but certainly not least of India’s greatest metropolises left on my list to see. There was also, of course, the added bonus of visiting a good friend who recently moved back to the city of her childhood, which made my exposure to the city far more intimate. Something that I learned on my first day there is that Bombay city is in fact made up of seven islands that were originally home to the fishing communities of the area. Remnants of the British East India Company and colonialism have also long lingered here, made evident through the architecture of the city’s churches, cinema halls, universities, and old time bungalows. Bombay is the wealthiest city in India and maintains the highest GDP of any city in South, West, or Central Asia. After spending nearly five days in this Alpha city, this did not surprise me.

I stayed in south Bombay, which is the more commercial and old part of the city, in the posh neighborhood of Kemps Corner. As I made my way to my friend’s high rise apartment building, I was amazed by how starkly different the city is from all the other cities of India I’ve visited. We drove along the Arabian Sea via the sea link, which resembled the Brooklyn Bridge, and as we approached the main road leading to the city center, I caught my first glimpse of the Queen’s Necklace, the famous corniche of Bombay and its skyscraper-studded backdrop. It was just like what I’d seen in Bollywood!

View of the Gateway of India and the Taj Hotel from the Arabian Sea

Dhobiwallas washing Bombay's uniforms- a sight for both locals and visitors

I spent my first full day in the city actually out of the city. After walking through Colaba Causeway, which has some of the best shopping, I reached the famous Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower. It was surreal seeing the latter after only having seen its burning tower on the news after the 2008 Mumbai Attacks. From the Gateway of India, I caught a one hour ferry to Elephanta Island to explore the ancient Elephanta Caves, containing some of the oldest Hindu sculptures of the Saivite sect. The rock cut architecture of the caves ostensibly dates back to between the 5th and 8th centuries and contain some of the most skillful, detailed, large scale carvings of the eastern world. It was spectacular, and my initially planned two hour visit ultimately occupied over half of the day.

Pushing back from the harbor

Entrance to the main cave of Elephanta

Shiva Lingam shrine, guarded by Dvarapalas

Panel depicting the divine marriage of Shiva and Parvati

Shiva as Nataraja, the Cosmic Dancer

The center head of Maheswara in the Trinity

Close up of Nataraja

Entrance to the east end cave

The Holy Trinity

Maheswara, Brahma to His right

Another angle of the Holy Trinity

Pillars of the main cave

Bombay is full of museums, amazing eateries, a dynamic nightlife, and some of the finest art galleries in Asia. After roaming through Jehangir Art Gallery and the artwalk around it, I experienced my first taste of Parsi cuisine, which is now considered one of the most delectable in my mind. The primary base of most meat dishes includes a dry fruit paste, typically made of plums or dates, and dishes are topped with deep fried shredded potato. The combination of these with an array of masalas and berry pilau is absolutely divine.

It says it all

The best museum in all of Bombay

On my second to last night out in the city, we went out to one of the newest bars called Blue Frog before heading to the more commonly known Shiro Lounge, which has stunning East Asian décor. The former, however, was interestingly situated inside an old mill factory, located on some of Bombay’s most prime real estate. The mill factories and their workers were essentially put out of business, but they still reside on this much desired real estate. While they live in relatively dire poverty alongside squatters, just across the way are situated some of the most high end designer stores and shopping malls. This juxtaposition is so striking and demonstrative of the widening gap between the haves and have nots that is filled by a growing middle class of Indian society.

Dhobiwallas at work with Bombay's buildings as a backdrop

Colorful uniforms of Bombay hanging to dry

During those few days in Bombay, I revisited my desire to once again live abroad for the long term when the opportunity and the time rise again. India, once at the top of my list, had almost been eliminated from the potential countries for residence. I think this visit may have just jumbled my many considerations.

The Gateway of India

The Taj Hotel