Kingdoms of Kathmandu

Kathmandu Valley, I learned, is comprised of three significant cities. The first is its namesake, Kathmandu city, capital of the former kingdom, now Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal. To the east is Bhaktapur, also known as Bhadgaon, meaning the city of devotees and is home to Nepal’s medieval art and architecture. Finally, to the south, is Patan, also known as Lalitpur, the city of fine arts. Each of these three former kingdoms is centered around a durbar (palace) square, their structures peppering the valley with the stone mandapams of Hindu temples, golden spires of Buddhist stupas, and brick red rooftops, iced with ornate wood carvings, of ancient palaces.

In addition to its durbar square, Kathmandu city is also home to three major temples. Swayambhunath and Boudanath are two massive Buddhist stupas, each standing with four pairs of eyes facing the four cardinal directions, believed to be observing “righteous behavior” and “human prosperity.”














Pashupatinath is renowned to be one of the most sacred Hindu temples and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. I was surprised by the number of lingams, the oldest symbol in Hinduism, dotting the entire premises of the temple. I was equally surprised and, for some reason, dismayed to see that the adjacent Bagmati river’s banks served as cremation grounds. Five pyres burned concurrently, while the ashes of the dead were poured into the Bagmati’s flowing waters. Still, the grounds of the temple were absolutely mesmerizing. Rows and rows of smaller temples containing lingams sat in adjoining complexes winding up a long stairway that led to yet another set of temples filled with Ganeshas. These were guarded my large stone mice, Ganesha’s vahana or vehicle, symbolizing, according to one interpretation, wisdom, talent, and intelligence. Another interpretation is that the mouse symbolizes the complete opposite-ignorance and ego, and Ganesha, the lord of wisdom and the remover of obstacles, by riding atop the mouse, has tamed these vices and remained the master. I was so absorbed by a new awareness of clearly ancient and significant Hindu structures, that before I knew it, I had wound up far beyond the grounds of the main temple complex. As I attempted to find my way back, my sense of direction faltered, and I was forced to hand over my cell phone, indicating on its screen a single remaining bar of power, to a bystander to direct my taxi driver to my pick up location.











Patan durbar square is probably my favorite of the three and is also saturated with ancient palaces and temples. Surrounding the grounds are several stores to buy brass and copper Buddhist and Hindu deities, but as I searched for replicas of original pieces, I was disappointed to see that many of these merchants catered to the tastes of foreign tourists, who are more interested in primarily stereotypical religious icons. But, I also learned that if willing to pay a little more, I could get the desired pieces made to order. That will be something to think about over the next few months.

















Last, and certainly not least, I visited Bhaktapur, which seems to be the most popular of the three. It, too, contains a series of Hindu temples, overlooked by a palace of fifty-five windows, built by King Bupatindra Malla. Nepal’s Hindu temple structures are very foreign images to me in comparison to the elaborately carved stone temples of South India and Sri Lanka. The temples here mimic the pagoda style of east and southeast Asia, and in Bhaktapur, are built on terraces lined with stone-carved pairs of famous figures, elephants, lions, griffins, and goddesses. A few minutes’ walk from the square is the pottery market, where I saw mostly elder potters kneading and spinning wheels, giving life and shape to the red and black clay.



















Kathmandu is certainly a unique place full of a different kind of magic, but like many ancient places, is like an onion. The explorer is required to transcend each layer in order to get a proper taste of the rich symbolism and essence of the former kingdoms of Kathmandu.