Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Characters in Swaziland

December 27, 2007. I can’t believe that over one month has already passed since coming to Africa. Time seems to be flying by faster than ever and on continuous acceleration. During my last days in DC, I knew that this experience would change my life, but I never anticipated the extent to which it would actually impact my entire perspective of life, in terms of both outlook and future expectations. I’m not quite sure that I can justly articulate the overflowing emotions and thoughts running through my mind, but suffice it to say that I am incredibly grateful for this opportunity that spontaneously fell into my lap and now cannot imagine my life without this time here in Africa.

In the course of six weeks, it amazes me how deeply some of the relationships have developed with individuals that I’ve met here. There are many, but by far, it’s the Italians that have really left a profound mark on my memories thus far. They somehow became family, and I can’t imagine what my first few weeks in Swaziland would have been without them. Ste is in a constant state of ecstasy, and it’s refreshing to be around someone who really does cease each day as if it’s the last, making the best of every moment, for himself as well as for all of us around him. Then, there’s his partner in crime, whom we lovingly call Inj because by training, he’s an engineer. Inj is the ‘cool guy’ of the group who effortlessly melts women with his charm, sense of humor, and comedy. We often would refer to him as the ‘matador’ because he always manages to be the star of the group. And then finally, the most eccentric of the trio, whom we will call Giappolo, is always eager to immerse himself in local culture and take the extra effort to communicate with Swazis in Siswati. One common trait that they all share is kindness and compassion. Though they’ve come to be quite popular here in Mbabane, they remain humble and considerate of everyone around them. So, when I initially moved to Mbabane, I was lucky to move into their house and automatically be incorporated into their crew. The stories are numerous and unreal, but again, suffice it to say, that though I’m incredibly devastated and distraught by their departure back to Italy this weekend, it was probably in their best interest to get out now!











Last night, I was invited by a South African Indian friend whom I’ve met here to join her for a dinner at a Sri Lankan couple’s home. Yes, Sri Lankan! I was completely surprised but thrilled by the idea that there are other individuals of South Asian descent living in Swaziland. At the dinner party hosted in the couple’s beautiful, newly constructed home in Ezulwini, I met several new people of all backgrounds, and it revealed a new face of Swaziland. At times, I felt like I was at a dinner party in one of the lavish homes of Colombo! Admittedly, I feel naïve sometimes when writing about these experiences, but it’s mindblowing to meet third, fourth, fifth generation South Asians who identify with and identify themselves so differently from the South Asians of the States, the UK, and even Canada whom we’re more accustomed to. These interactions have really opened up my mind to perspectives and a world that remains foreign but incredibly fascinating to me.

To add to the randomness, let me briefly relay how I spent Christmas in Mbabane- Jaffna style! I was introduced to a Sri Lankan Tamil woman from Jaffna who has lived in Swaziland for several years now with her South Indian Tamil husband. She immediately welcomed me into her home, as is the way of the Tamil people, and invited me to spend Christmas lunch with her and her family. Upon arrival, I was introduced to her extended family, comprised of South Indian and Jaffna Tamils, currently residing in Swaziland and Durban, South Africa, and for a moment, I could have forgotten where I was—Tamil music playing in the background, young daughters running and playing around the house while their anklets jingled, hearing the Tamil language all around me. It was incredible! Many of the younger couples are professors of mathematic or scientific subjects at the University of Swaziland, and somehow each of them has made their way to Swaziland. The Tamil Diaspora is globally widespread, and like other migrant groups, has successfully adapted, survived, and established itself everywhere. I never would have expected to be able to continue Tamil lessons here of all places, but starting this afternoon, I’ll be meeting with one of the Akkas that I recently met for conversational lessons! But, more importantly, I now have boundless access to koththu rotti and other Sri Lankan dishes!











I ended Christmas with great food, drinks, and my chicken curry at an Irish friend’s place. Dymps and her boyfriend, Tom, are two of the most amicable people whom I’ve met in Mbabane. We were joined by Dymps’s sister and husband, visiting from Ireland, and two other development workers from England and Scotland. It was an unforgettable Christmas in Swaziland.

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